Treatments for Mature Aging Skin

As we all are searching for ways to prevent or treat wrinkles, doctors perform a wide range of treatments.

Treatments for mature, aging, wrinkled skin include; facials peels, cosmetic surgery, laser resurfacing, local BoTox (purifird botulinum toxin) or collagen injections, and fat transfers. All of these treatments can cause unpleasant side effects. If you are considering one of these medical treatments, do plenty of research and talk to your dermatologist about your options.

Remember that sun is the worst enemy to your skin. Protect yourself from these harmful rays starting at a young age. Most damage done by the sun does not show up until years later! Practice good skin care. Avoid using harsh soaps or solid cleansing creams such as cold cream on your face. Use a natural oil to cleanse the face of make up and dirt such as avacado oil. Exfoliate several times a week and keep your skin well lubricated, especially if it is dry.

Eat a well balanced diet that includes many and varied fruits and vegetables, preferably raw, to provide your skin with the nutrients it needs. Also eat whole grains, seeds, nuts, and legumes. Drink lots of water! At least 2 quarts a day. This helps to keep the skin hydrated and to flush out toxins, discouraging the formation of wrinkles.

Avoid cosmetics/skincare products containing petrolatum, mineral oil, or any hydrogenated oils. Instead, use products containing natural ingredients. Glycerine, aloe vera, calendula, chamomile, collagen, cucumber, Panthenol (provitamin B5), Ginkgo biloba, Primrose oil, Vitamin A Betatene, B vitamins, Vitamin C, Vitamin E, kelp, Zinc, copper, Grape seed extract.....to name a few.

Wrinkles form when the skin thins and loses its elasticity. Skin that is not supple or hydrated, retains the lines formed by facial expressions and over time, these lines deepen into wrinkles.

Some amount of wrinkling is an inevitable result of aging, no matter what you do. The first signs are usually around the eyes where the skins tissue is most delicate. Crow's feet or more politely called laugh lines. Next, the cheeks and lips begin to show damage.

As we age, our skin becomes thinner and dryer, both of which contribute to the formation of wrinkles. But other factors help to determine the rate and the extent of wrinkling, including diet and nutrition, muscle tone, habitual facial expressions, stress, lack of proper skin care, exposure to environmental pollutants, and lifestyle habits such as smoking. Heredity most likely plays a role. Again, the most damaging factor is the sun. Over exposure dries out the skin and also leads to the generation of free radicals that damage skin cells.

Alpha Hydroxy Acids in Cosmetics

Products with AHAs are marketed for a variety of purposes: to smooth fine lines and surface wrinkles, to improve skin texture and tone, to unblock and cleanse pores, to improve oily skin or acne, and to improve skin condition in general. It is important to follow the use instructions on the label. Do not exceed the recommended applications. It is not recommended that AHA-containing products be used on infants and children.

To find out if a cosmetic contains an AHA, look on the list of ingredients that all cosmetics must, by law, have on their outer packaging.

AHA ingredients may be listed as:

glycolic acid
lactic acid
malic acid
citric acid
glycolic acid + ammonium glycolate
alpha-hydroxyethanoic acid + ammonium alpha-hydroxyethanoate
alpha-hydroxyoctanoic acid
alpha-hydroxycaprylic acid
hydroxycaprylic acid
mixed fruit acid
tri-alpha hydroxy fruit acids
triple fruit acid
sugar cane extract
alpha hydroxy and botanical complex
L-alpha hydroxy acid
glycomer in crosslinked fatty acids alpha nutrium (three AHAs).
Of these, the most frequently used in cosmetics are glycolic acid and lactic acid.

If you have purchased a product whose outer packaging has become separated from the product and you are unsure whether it contains AHAs, call the manufacturer, whose phone number may be listed on the inner packaging.

AHA products cause exfoliation, or shedding of the surface skin. The extent of exfoliation depends on the type and concentration of the AHA, its pH (acidity), and other ingredients in the product. Most cosmetics sold to consumers contain AHAs at levels up to 10 percent. It is FDA's understanding that products with AHA concentrations of 20 percent or higher are used by trained cosmetologists for salon "mini-peels."

In studies conducted by FDA on the absorption of AHAs through the skin, the AHAs tested were readily absorbed into the skin at varying rates. The most rapid absorption occurred with AHAs having lower pHs (higher acidity).

The recent report linking AHAs to increased UV sensitivity was sponsored by the Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association. The results were reported at a December 1996 meeting of the trade group's Cosmetic Ingredient Review Panel (CIR), which began reviewing the safety of AHAs in 1994.

The panel concluded at its December meeting that AHAs are "safe for use in cosmetic products at concentrations less than or equal to 10 percent, at final formulation pHs greater than or equal to 3.5, when formulated to avoid increasing the skin's sensitivity to the sun, or when directions for use include the daily use of sun protection." For salon use products, the panel said that the products are "safe for use at concentrations less than or equal to 30 percent, at final formulation pHs greater than or equal to 3.0, in products designed for brief, discontinuous use followed by thorough rinsing from the skin, when applied by trained professionals, and when application is accompanied by directions for the daily use of sun protection."

These conclusions were made final at a June 1997 meeting of the CIR panel in spite of serious safety questions submitted by a consumer group and a major manufacturer. FDA is reviewing these CIR conclusions, as well as the other available data about these products. Consumers should be aware that AHA concentration and pH are generally not noted on all products. (FDA does not require it.) However, the information should be available from the manufacturer.

Beta Hydroxy Acids in Cosmetics

BHA ingredients may be listed as -

salicylic acid (or related substances, such as salicylate, sodium salicylate, and willow extract) *
beta hydroxybutanoic acid
tropic acid
trethocanic acid

Currently, the BHA most commonly used in cosmetics is salicylic acid. On rare occasions, citric acid is also cited as a BHA in cosmetic formulations. More commonly, citric acid is referred to as an AHA.

Alpha and beta hydroxy acids

The safety of *salicylic acid used as a cosmetic ingredient has been evaluated by both the cosmetic industry and FDA. At a meeting in February 2000, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel, the cosmetic industry's independent body for reviewing the safety of cosmetic ingredients, reached the tentative conclusion that the use of salicylic acid related substances in cosmetics is "safe as used when formulated to avoid irritation and when formulated to avoid increased sun sensitivity."
CIR added that "when sun sensitivity would be expected, directions for use [should] include the daily use of sun protection."

In other words, according to CIR Director Alan Andersen, products containing salicylic acid should either contain a sunscreen or bear directions advising consumers to use other sun protection. In order to comply with the CIR recommendations, cosmetic manufacturers should test their products to determine whether or not they cause an increase in sensitivity to the harmful ultraviolet radiation in sunlight.

The long-term safety of salicylic acid in cosmetics also is being evaluated in studies initiated by FDA and sponsored by the National Toxicology Program. These government-sponsored studies are examining the long-term effects of both glycolic acid (an AHA) and salicylic acid on the skin's response to ultraviolet (UV) light. These studies have determined that applying glycolic acid to the skin can make people more susceptible to the damaging effects of the sun, including sunburn.

Until these safety assessments are completed, FDA advises that similar precautions be taken for the use of cosmetics containing AHAs and BHAs. These precautions are:

Test any product that contains a BHA on a small area of skin before applying it to a large area. If you use cosmetics with BHAs and experience skin irritation or prolonged stinging, stop using the product and consult your physician.

Follow the use instructions on the label. Do not exceed the recommended applications.

Avoid using BHA-containing products on infants and children.

Use sun protection if you use a BHA product.

Consumers should report any adverse reactions, such as irritation or sun sensitivity, associated with the use of BHAs to their local FDA office, listed in the Blue Pages of the phone book, or to FDA's Office of Consumer Affairs at 1-800-532-4440.

If you have purchased a product whose outer packaging has become separated from the product and you are unsure whether it contains BHAs, call the manufacturer, whose phone number may be listed on the inner packaging.

*From a chemist's perspective, salicylic acid is not a true BHA. However, cosmetic companies often refer to it as a BHA and, consequently, many consumers think of it as one.

Approved Treatments for Signs of Aging, Sun-Damaged Skin

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Skin Peelers

Chemical peels can irritate the skin, and they can also cause sun sensitivity. Alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) are acids derived from various fruits that act in much the same way, but they are natural, less irritating to your skin, and do not produce sun sensitivity.

Glycolic acid (the best for exfoliation), tartaric acid, citric acid, and malic acid are all AHAs. While these types of acids used on skin are gentler than chemical peels, they can still irritate sensitive or fair skin.

The Food and Drug Administration cautioned consumers about possible hazards associated with use of chemical skin peeling products. The agency also has begun an investigation to determine the seriousness of injuries reported to be associated with such products and the extent to which they occur.

"We are warning consumers about the use of skin peelers because they can cause serious injuries, particularly when not used under the supervision of a physician," said Commissioner David A. Kessler, M.D.

FDA issued the warning after it received reports of several injuries caused by skin peelers including four reports of skin burns from using a product called PeelAway. The agency said there may be other unreported injuries from PeelAway, as well as from other skin peeling products.

The products in question contain ingredients that purportedly remove wrinkles, blemishes, blotches and acne scars. They are often promoted with claims that they can restore youthful-looking skin.

FDA said such products can penetrate the skin too deeply, causing severe skin damage. In several cases, persons have been hospitalized for severe burns, swelling and pain. In one case, a California woman suffered seizure, shock and second degree burns after a mixture of skin peel chemicals was applied to her legs by a beautician. The case is under review by California State health officials.

Skin peeling products vary considerably as to their ingredients and strength. Also, skin reactions to the chemicals used in the products vary among individuals. Skin peeling products typically contain combinations and concentrations of several different acids such as resorcinol, phenol, lactic acid, trichloroacetic acid, salicylic acid, and glycolic acid and other alpha hydroxy acids.

They are ordinarily applied to the skin for a short time each day, usually for six to 12 days. The skin initially reddens, as with a sunburn, then darkens and finally peels away revealing what manufacturers claim will be "new skin." Treatments may be painful and leave permanent scars.

Skin peeling procedures used to be carried out only by plastic surgeons and dermatologists. However, they are now being done by a variety of non-medical professionals such as cosmetologists and beauticians, some using newly marketed preparations. Several of the products can be purchased through the mail. Many have inadequate instructions; none have been approved by FDA as being safe and effective.

In the course of conducting its investigation, FDA will review all products marketed with skin peeling claims. Dr. Kessler said FDA is working with state attorneys general who are also taking measures to stop the sale and use of hazardous skin peeling products.

In a warning letter sent to PeelAway manufacturer Global Esthetics of Seattle, Wash., FDA said that it considers PeelAway to be a new drug that cannot be legally marketed without FDA approval, and that the product is misbranded and presents a significant health hazard.

The actions being announced now are not directed at facial mask-type products intended for one-time or occasional use to cleanse the skin.

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